All posts in Nabi Saleh

Ha Na Nargila!

A sublime moment postponed for months.

I observed the temptation often. Fleeting glances. Hidden behind exotic doors. Mysterious. Befuddling.

Last night, finally, I succumbed. In a dark room in Ramallah. I held the fuzzy poms poms in my hand, caressing them, Into my mouth. A long puff. Exhale.
My first experience with a nargila.

Can’t say why it took me so long to get to this. A faintly apple, molasses flavored end to a productive spring week.

Our shoots ranged from Hebron to near Nablus. From Beit Ummar to Esh Kodesh. One afternoon with protesters scuffling with the IDF along the razor wire at Karmei Tzur. That evening with a settler walking us through a wind swept vineyard overlooking the Jordan Valley, showing us the 900 grape vines that had allegedly been clipped dead by Palestinians from a nearby village.

I already told you the inhaled high point. Probable low point: when a couple of soldiers outside Karmei Tzur tossed a sound grenade at me, for no reason whatsoever. It was not during a demonstration. Although I readily admit to responding with a few Angle Saxon vulgarities, they also yelled to me: “Next time I’m going to kill you bitch.” Maybe it was just a goof. I’m told they’re not supposed to waste munitions on such youthful high jinks.

In Nabi Saleh, I watched Mohammad Tamimi file his Facebook report on the day’s demonstration and the inevitable clash with the IDF. The scuffle had moved up the hill, past the town gas station, and into the town itself. Tear gas wafted in. The skunk water truck was about 200 yard away, blasting foul sewage (don’t know if it’s real or man-made) at the rock throwers.

In Esh Kodesh, I had one of the best servings of brisket and stuffed peppers ever.

Tomorrow, the 12:40 a.m. Delta to JFK.

“RESIST” ROLLS OFF PRESSES! HITS STANDS SATURDAY!

We walked down the concrete stairs. The loud, rhythmic ca chunk ca chunk ca chunk got louder.  The perfume in the air was the unmistakable smell of ink.
We entered the large factory floor.  And there were the Heidelberg Speedmaster presses, arrayed in industrial rows, rolling and stamping and stacking.  We were in the press room in the basement of a Ramallah newspaper, a printing operation that produces a daily morning paper, glossy fashion magazines filled with pictures of beautiful, glamorous Palestinians, and today, the first issue of a magazine called Resist!, the creation of Mohammad Atallah Tamimi.
I don’t want to veer away from non-partisanship, but I don’t mind being partisan about something I love, and that’s a press room. I started in newspapers, so it’s kind of sentimental for me.
So congratulations to Mohammad on his first issue.

 

 

The Last 76 Hours….Mohammad Arrested

We returned to Nabi Saleh last Tuesday night, where the mourning for Mustafa continued. Villege men gathered in a hall off the town center, and greeted us warmly. We were then invited to join Mohammad Tamimi and his father for dinner, where I also met Balil Tamimi for the first time. Balil speaks great English and shoots many of the videos posted by the Tamimi Press. Two days later, Mohammad was arrested. He is now being held in Ofer prison, and I just heard a few moments ago that his hearing is scheduled for tomorrow.

On Thursday, we were traveling around the West Bank with Hagit Ofran of Peace Now, when word came that a mosque in Burqa had been vandalized. Burqa is a village near Migron, the “illegal outpost” that is scheduled to be evacuated by the end of March. I had been to Burqa once before in search of the land owners who were involved in the legal case against Migron, and it was very meaningful to be going back there, this time with Hagit.

We arrived in Burqa to be met by village leaders, who escorted us into the mosque. The attackers had set fire to a rug on an upper floor, and had also scrawled graffiti on the walls. A TV truck sat outside the mosque, its generator humming.

While most of the action on the trip involved people we’re following on the Palestinian side, we made important progress on the Israeli side as well. A week ago Sunday, DP Tal Pesses was filming Rabbi Fruman’s Sunday night teaching in Tekoa. I had an interesting meeting with a settler from Amona, and with another settler involved in a joint Israeli-Palestinian agricultural project in Gush Etzion. Another one of the Israeli character’s we’re trying to follow wasn’t that easy to meet with — he was in jail.

Third Trip — First 48 Hours

Events have transformed a final pre-production week into a time of crazy scrambling to keep up with what’s happening on the ground

Last Friday, Mustafa Tamimi, 27, was killed during the weekly demonstration at Nabi Saleh. He was shot in the face from close range with a tear gas grenade, and he died the next day. I arrived in time to attend the funeral on Sunday, sad, frenetic and angry. It slowed down only during some poetically moving moments as the local imam chanted a mournful prayer over the loudspeakers as several hundred people pressed in against the entrance to the mosque.

Almost immediately after Mustafa’s body was lowered into the ground, young people gathered and raced down the road leading to the main highway. The IDF was waiting, first firing skunk water, then going to tear gas and stun grenades. After the main thrust of the youths retreated from the road, Mohammad Tamimi (who will be a main subject of “Holy Land”} ran down the steep hill leading to another part of the highway, to confront the dozen or so Israeli soldiers who stood along the guard rail. Other Palestinians joined Mohammad, along with several activists. It was a direct, hand to hand struggle, with screaming and shoving. Several young women activists were thrown on the asphalt by the soldiers. Soon enough, the soldiers used tear gas and stun grenades to push the protesters back up the hill.

That same night, we rushed to Tel Aviv, where a group of right wing activists were holding a demonstration against Sudanese immigrants living in the same area where the protesters had convened. They marched along the street, chanting and singing, while Sudanese looked on with what seemed to be quiet bemusement. The crowd gathered on the patchy grass of a park, for more sloganeering. A group of left wing counter demonstrators gathered to denounce the right wingers — the whole crowed dispersed when someone turned on the irrigation system and doused everyone.

Yesterday started slowly, with a few fascinating, off camera meetings with some of our potential subjects. When I had finally settled down for a nap, the phone rang, with producer Alon Tuval’s Austrian/Israeli accent on the other end, telling me to drop everything and run to our meeting point at a parking lot. 30 minutes later, we were by the Dead Sea, where a group of “hilltop youth” had occupied an old fort of some kind. There was a beautiful full moon. It was in a fenced in military area, with mine fields on either side. By some miracle — echoing the parting of the Red Sea for Moses — we managed to speed through an open gate and approach the fort, where the police and IDF were massing, trying to figure out what to do with the activists. Inside was one of the potential subjects of the film. We were the only “media” to make it that close to the outside of the standoff, and an officer threatened to do bad stuff to us if we didn’t get the hell out. We withdrew, only to be stopped at the first gate by a young solider who announced that we were being detained. Alon’s fast talking extricated us.

It turned out to be a busy night elsewhere in the Holy Land. Another group of “hilltop youth” took over an IDF base, and the settlement-covering media was simultaneously on alert to cover the demolition and evacuation of Ramat Gilad, and illegal outpost.

An Official Investigation Must be Conducted

Based on the extensive evidence that has become available, it appears that a soldier fired at Mustafa Tamimi from the back of an armored jeep while the jeep was driving away from Mustafa. Mustafa was hit in the face by a tear gas grenade, and died a few hours later. Mustafa was throwing rocks at the jeep, but it still would appear to be an act of malicious negligence. The IDF must establish if this was an act of sadistic reprisal or an accident, but the facts need to be made known. We will be in Nabi Saleh tomorrow to cover the funderal. Our condolences to the people of the village.